Saturday, June 14, 2008

Ramoji Rao Studio - Hyderabad.

Ramoji Rao Filmcity - this is Bollywood ! outside Bombay. India's biggest film studio does not feature special effects sets, but it features castles, pretend cities, even a Hollywood sign. All said and done, as much as it is pretty to look at, it is certainly not worth the price - Rs.300 (about 8 dollars). It has very little to offer, its too hot and lacks proper drinking water, toilets and tour guides.



Konark + Puri

Temple of the Sun God in Konark, Orissa. This temple was demolished by the British. Before it was demolished, it housed a huge magnet and a shrine that was 175 feet tall. The magnet is now housed in a museum somewhere in England.
The temple's walls are filled with carvings out of the Kama Sutra. Most of them depict threesomes - little wonder, because Surya Bhagwan (Sun God) had two wives - Chaaya and Maaya (Shade and Illusion). It is a popular spot among couples - young and old, who come by and study the carvings for inspiration. So much for a conservative india :p.

Temple in the distance is the Jaganath Puri temple. It houses an incomplete statue of Lord Krishna along with his cohorts. Beware of scamming Brahmins called 'Pandas' by the locals. They will bless you and then demand a humongous sum of money. When this demand is not met, they curse curses like - you will die on your way back home or you will never have kids, etc.
Lounging at Puri Beach. The Bay of Bengal at this beach.

Bodhgaya

80-Feet Buddha. The Dalai Lama blessed this idol in 1998. It is maintained by the Japanese Buddhist Brotherhood.
The Mahabodhi Temple. This is the spot where Buddha spent his last days. After he passed away, his followers built this temple.
Inside the temple.
This is the legendary Mahabodhi tree. After Ashoka's wife chopped off the original tree, a small sapling from the undergrowth was taken to Sri Lanka by Ashoka's sons. A sapling from the Sri Lankan temple was planted at Sarnath. And a sapling from Sarnath was planted back at this spot. But, the original Mahabodhi tree started growing again by the time all the transplanting was done.
A sign inside the temple.

Sarnath - Where Buddha was enlightened

Buddha was born in Nepal, received enligtenment in Sarnath and spent his last days meditating under the Mahabodhi tree in Bodhgaya. A lot of countries with a substantial Buddhist population have established temples at these sites. The temples are fully funded and maintained by the aforesaid goverments. I shall post a few pictures, but with over twenty temples, it would be impossible to post up so many pictures. It is extremely colourful and peaceful.
Sri-Lanka funded temple.
Ashoka's Stupa. When King Ashoka - King of Maghadha gave up violence after the battle of Kalinga, he embraced Buddhism. He and his sons dedicated the rest of his life to spreading Buddhism around the world. This stupa was built by Ashoka as a memorial to where Buddha might have meditated. Today, it is only ruins. British Raj, and consequent beauraucracy got to it.
These are wish handkerchiefs outside a temple. If you have a wish, write it out on a piece of cloth and tie it here. If it comes true, come back and tie another piece of cloth.
For instance, this one reads "I wish my uncle gets a good job with a good pay. -Abhishek"
This is a Bodhi tree. Every temple compound has one of these. Each one traces its lineage to the original Mahabodhi tree in Bodhgaya. The one that was chopped off by Ashoka's wife, in response to his extreme love for Buddhism over her.

Varanasi

Varanasi is the holiest spot for Hindus. Apart from being the world's oldest continiously occupied city Varanasi is known for its crooked Rikshaw drivers, small by-lanes, sweet buttermilk and something awesome called Bhang - which is marijuana mixed with sweet buttermilk and spices. Of course I didn't try any ;).

Varanasi Railway Station - Built to resemble a temple.
Rajamahal Ghat - Legend is that a Rajasthani King wanted to spend his last days in Varanasi, on the banks of the Ganges. So he had this palace built as his retirement mansion. After he passed away he donated the land to the people that served him. Today the palace is owned by the Government of India and serves as a subsidised living space for those that are not very monetarily fortunate. Rents start at just Rs. 5 a month.
A view of the Ghats.
Ganga Puja. This is the same Ganga prayer as the one seen in Haridwar, but on a larger scale. Every Ghat, excluding burning Ghats is illuminated and thousands of Indian and foreign tourists throng the place on foot and on boats to check out the evening prayers.
People assembling for the evening prayer.



Thursday, May 15, 2008

Allahabad - Triveni Sangam

Allahabad is an overnight train ride away from Agra. It is where Ganga meets Yamuna and Saraswati. The confluence of three rivers is called Triveni Sangam.

Haridwar/Rishikesh is where the pilgrim first begins his or her journey with the Ganges, Allahabad is what represents the life of the pilgrime and the liminality associated with it and Varanasi/Kashi and thereafter Gaya is where one bathes in the Ganges for the last time.

Other than the extremely aggressive, fast-selling, intimidating and almost scary boatmen trying to make you shell more cash for our ride - a dip in the Triveni Sangam was an exhilerating experience for me - spiritually or otherwise. The sights and sounds associated with the place are extremely beautiful and cannot be missed.
From the backseat of an Autorikshaw - on our way to the Triveni Sangam.

Family offering ashes of their dear departed to the river.



Boats lined up.


Man selling Jerry cans for pilgrims to take home some water.



Amma praying after the dip.


Priest blessing a child aboard a boat at the Sangam.


Our boatman.
Same guy without the headgear.


Woman prettying herself after a dip in the Ganges.


Man without his pants, taking a picture of his wife - woman in red. In the background, pilgrims taking a dip.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

New Delhi

Delhi is an excellent city. Rickshaws and buses run on Compressed Natural Gas, so no more diesel pollution.

The city has initiated a tonne of beautification projects, poverty rehabilitation and public transit projects. More later.
Park at Connaught Place, Delhi. Right under this park is a huge market called Palika Bazaar, it is airconditioned and cheap. A great place to shop if you're shopping. The only turn off is overly aggressive shop keepers, but that again, is an experience in itself.
View out of a Rikshaw.
We are at one of Delhi's spanking new Metro Rail Stations. They have metal detectors and X-Ray machines and HUGE cars. I guess, its to accommodate the million people that got on with us.
India Gate at night. Once you drive through the gate (hypothetically, civilians are not allowed to drive through), one end of the road through houses the President's Residence and the other end has the National Stadium. The British built this back during the Raj with a statue of King George in the foreground. The statue of King George has been replaced by that of Gandhi.
Qutub Minar. Part of a huge mosque designed back in the 1100s.
Graves - presumably husband and wife, at the Qutub Minar.
Stones for the pillars above have been (allegedly) pulled out of Jain and Hindu temples that were demolished by Muslim invaders. This may or may not be true, i overheard a tour guide talk about it at length to a German couple.
That pillar in the background is made of iron and surprisingly hasn't eroded in the past 1000 years or so. Indian/Persian/Mughal/whatever metallurgy at work.

The T-A-J

East Gate of the Taj Mahal.


I never gave into all the hype about the Taj Mahal..i mean, yeah sure its there with all other things Islamic - a Dome and four minarets. But boy, was I in for a surprise or what !

Stepping into the complex itself, this thing is HUGE. And its off white now, but its Majestic and just terribly fantastic..

Its not gawdy at all, instead the Taj is classy and sombre and supremely cool. I forgot all the misgivings I had about Agra City with its pushy Rickshaw drivers, tour guides and foreign exchange scammers. In side the Taj complex, its a completely different world.

Everybody has to visit it. Tickets are Rs. 20 for Indian Nationals and Rs. 750 for foreign nationals. Being a Transnational like me helps a lot. The Taj opens at 6 am and closes at 7 pm. Be very vary of rickshaw drivers dragging you into Meena Market or a Marble shop, you are better of bargaining by yourself. Don't be ashamed to bargain, the boys selling little Taj Mahals still make a chummy chunk off tourists. Don't be ashamed to bargain, but don't be too inconsiderate. Make it a point to bargain down your price and then pay Rs. 10-20 over as a tip. It just makes them happy.

Sunday, May 4, 2008

Amritsar

Deodhari gate - The main entry way to the Golden Temple.
The Harminder Sahib - Golden part of the Golden Temple. This is where the Guru Granth Sahib is kept during the day.
Golden Temple atop the Amrit Sarovar - Holy Lake.
Sewaks (Volunteers) toil to feed pilgrims. Anyone is free to eat or volunteer at the Golden Temple. The premises are open 24/7 and offer meals to everyone that comes in. Of course we ate !
Dishes !! Those steel plates are ones used to serve food. Imagine the dishes these volunteers have to do ..